I purchased a Roku R-1000 last week for $5. Needless to say, it didn't work and was dead as a doornail

After reading dozens of complaints on the web talking about their power supplies failing shortly after the warranty had expired, I decided to take the power supply apart and look inside.
ROKU HAS DONE EVERYTHING POSSIBLE TO MAKE THE POWER SUPPLY DIFFICULT TO SERVICE!
1) The power supply is held to the player with 4 torx
SECURITY screws. I used a carefully selected slot screwdriver wedged between the security peg and the torx teeth and removed them.
2) After removing the supply and diconnecting the power and speaker connectors, I removed all of the screws which hold on the back of the PS.
3) The back is
GLUED on
4) Running an x-acto knife around the crack between the back and the casing and heating wirh a hair dryer to soften the glue, I gingerly pried off the back.
5) The power supply just slides out and is encased in a flimsy clear plastic box wrapped in aluminium and copper tape which is simple to open by peeling back the tape.
6) With the power PS naked and vulnerable in my hand, 2 of 2200uf 35 V electrolytic capacitors had bulged out tops and were leaking. A nearby 220uf 35V had suffered the same fate.
7) Before I could replace the capacitors, I had to remove a second board soldered on the bottom of the PS board.

Roku put blobs of tar on all the connections on the second board that had to be wiped off with a rag soaked in laquer thinner BEFORE any desoldering could be attempted. Using copper desoldering tape, the connections were desoldered and then glue on the corners of the board were cut with the x-acto knife.
9) Gently prying the two boards apart with a butter knife, another big blob of cement in the middle cracked and the boards were finally apart.
10) Replacing the three bad capacitors using copper desoldering tape was quickly accomplished and then the boards were reassembled and resoldered.
Take note, the negative lead on one of the replaced capacitors must be left long enough to pass through and be soldered to the second board.
11) Before I put the boards back in the celluloid case, I cut away most of the top and bottom of the celluloid case. This was to allow some air to get at the boards and maybe keep them from cooking again. I also drilled about 8 3/8" holes in front of the serial plate of the main PS case to allow cool air to enter from the bottom. The looney that thought using the resonance tube to take in AND remove air will make a fine washroom attendant some day!!!
12) After retaping the celluloid case together, I went on to put everything back together
13)
DID IT WORK?...DARN TOOTIN...WORKS GREAT....MOMMY DIDN'T HAVE NO STUPID KIDS!:D
14) $5 FOR THE ROKU AND $5 FOR CAPACITORS AND LOTSA SWEET MUSIC..GO DO ONE YOURSELF OR IF YOU REALLY WANT PAIN, JUST STICK HOT NEEDLES IN YOUR EYES