Roku freezes when idle; needs power cycled to reset.

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Roku freezes when idle; needs power cycled to reset.

Postby F14Scott » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:55 pm

My Roku seems to work well, while I am actively using it. I use the HDMI connection, WiFi, and have hardware N1000 and software v2.4b350.

My issue is this: When my Roku sits idle for as little as a couple of hours, it freezes up. My TV displays a green screen, and no remote button-pushing will unfreeze the Roku. Pulling the DC power cord and replacing it restarts the unit, and it works fine from that point on, but the next time I want to use the Roku, after it has been sitting idle, I have to pull/replace the cord again.

I called Roku customer service, and my rep told me I should simply unplug the unit when not in use, and plug it in again when I want to use it. I patiently explained that whether I pulled the plug immediately after use or immediately before use, the fact that I inconveniently have to pull a plug and then replace it (later or sooner) still exists.

Nowhere else on my AV system do I have to walk up to one of the components and touch it to make it work. And, it's not like it's a simple button push; I have to pick up the the unit, turn it around, and remove and replace the power cord. I don't think there could be a less elegant solution.

Anyone else having this problem? Any fixes?
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Postby umbluegray » Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:36 pm

I just received and set up my Roku HD XR and have the same problem you mentioned.

Using the HDMI connection to my TV & WiFi (wireless n).

I thought I'd check out the forum topics before I contacted tech support.
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Postby jeffrok » Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:16 am

To the OP:

Try selecting a different component on your tv and then switch back to the component your Rolu uses.. This should wake it up. For example, if your Roku is on $4;% e on your tv, select HDMI 2 and then return to HDMI 1.

If that doesn't work, I'd say just use componentoutput from the Roku, with optical audio out for now.

its not the perfect fix, but it works.
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Postby F14Scott » Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:35 am

jeffrok wrote:To the OP:

Try selecting a different component on your tv and then switch back to the component your Rolu uses.. This should wake it up. For example, if your Roku is on $4;% e on your tv, select HDMI 2 and then return to HDMI 1.


Doesn't work for me.

jeffrok wrote:If that doesn't work, I'd say just use componentoutput from the Roku, with optical audio out for now.

its not the perfect fix, but it works.


I didn't have an optical audio cable, but component video and composite (RCA) audio also works fine, and solves the issue, albeit in (as you noted) an imperfect way.

Thanks for the help!
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Postby jeffrok » Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:47 am

No problem.. It has something to do with the Roku not having a power button.. Most if not all HDMI-enabled products have a power button, and during the power recycle, the HDMI handshake occurs with the receiver/TV.. Since there's no power cycle on the Roku, there's no handshake.. This is how I understand it..

Luckily it only happens with certain TV's and HT receivers, or Roku would have quite a long list of complainers.
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Postby MarcBMA » Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:20 pm

jeffrok wrote:No problem.. It has something to do with the Roku not having a power button.. Most if not all HDMI-enabled products have a power button, and during the power recycle, the HDMI handshake occurs with the receiver/TV.. Since there's no power cycle on the Roku, there's no handshake.. This is how I understand it..

Luckily it only happens with certain TV's and HT receivers, or Roku would have quite a long list of complainers.

Just hooked mine up, and I'm having a similar problem. The Roku is routed through a Sony receiver/HDMI switcher. When you switch from one input to the Roku input, the TV doesn't see the signal. If you unplug/plug the Roku power cord, all is well because the handshaking is taking place. I have no idea why on earth there is no power toggle for this device. Having to unplug and plug in the power cord every time I want to watch it is pretty ridiculous. Absolutely ridiculous. The only options are to go component, which is additionally ridiculous since I want HD, or going directly to my plasma, which is equally ridiculous since I want to listen to the movies in 5.1

Is it really that hard to have a power toggle?

Who designed this thing? Stevie Wonder?
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Postby KennyJ » Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:23 pm

Component is HD.

"Component video is capable of carrying signals such as 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p, and new high definition TVs support the use of component video up to their native resolution."
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Postby gadrago » Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:06 pm

Agreed component is HD, albeit analog HD vs. the digital HD on a HDMI cable, but without the handshaking problems that affect some combinations of media players and displays. My new 42-inch Panasonic plasma with its multiple inputs is attached to one of my Roku boxes via HDMI, component, and composite (through a DVD/VCR). I can't see any difference in picture quality between component and HDMI on that size screen anyways (is a difference visible on 65-inch screen?).

Also to the original poster, if you had the Roku attached multiply through its component or composite outputs, you would see that when you get the green screen handshake failure on the HDMI, the Roku box itself is not frozen- it's perfectly active on the non-HDCP attachments.

And depending upon the TV, different actions reestablish the HDMI handshake for different combinations of devices. Switching inputs on my TV did not work for my TV. Power cycling the Roku and unplugging one end of the HDMI cable did work, but inconvenient and hard on the female jacks. In my case the occasional HDMI handshake failure was permanently solved, after trying several 28AWG monoprice HDMI cables from my inventory, by buying a slightly more expensive 24AWG HDMI cable from monoprice. That was five weeks ago. The handshake problem was solved permanently for my device combination, neither the solid green screen after inactivity nor the brief flashing green screen during use.
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Postby MarcBMA » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:44 am

KennyJ wrote:Component is HD.

"Component video is capable of carrying signals such as 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p, and new high definition TVs support the use of component video up to their native resolution."

Which is fine unless, except it doesn't explain why this very basic box does not have a power toggle. If I had to wager a guess, I'd say it is likely because of the amount of time it takes for the system to boot up, and that would make sense, but to not have a power toggle on a simple, basic box like this is just silly.

I'm hoping gadrago's suggestion of upgrading the HDMI cable helps. I'm using a spare I had that was included with my Blu-Ray, so here's hoping a better HDMI cable may fix the issue so I don't need to get back behind the entertainment rack and run another component cable.
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Postby jcmolet » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:50 am

MarcBMA wrote: Just hooked mine up, and I'm having a similar problem. The Roku is routed through a Sony receiver/HDMI switcher. When you switch from one input to the Roku input, the TV doesn't see the signal. If you unplug/plug the Roku power cord, all is well because the handshaking is taking place. I have no idea why on earth there is no power toggle for this device. Having to unplug and plug in the power cord every time I want to watch it is pretty ridiculous. Absolutely ridiculous. The only options are to go component, which is additionally ridiculous since I want HD, or going directly to my plasma, which is equally ridiculous since I want to listen to the movies in 5.1

Is it really that hard to have a power toggle?

Who designed this thing? Stevie Wonder?


I have three Rokus in three different configurations with other equipment and in each configuration, pushing the "Home" button wakes up the Roku; in effect, it is a power on button.

Edit: I had a similar problem with my AppleTV (which also does not have an on/off switch) when routed through a Monporice HDMI switch. As it stands now, I have my Apple TV routed through an Oppo HM-31 switch as well as two of my three Rokus. I am pretty certain you aren't interested in buying a different HDMI switch; however, my experience is that the Oppo HM-31 is a great switch that works well with the Roku DVP and every other component I have routed through it.
Last edited by jcmolet on Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:04 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby KennyJ » Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:00 am

MarcBMA wrote:
KennyJ wrote:Component is HD.

"Component video is capable of carrying signals such as 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p, and new high definition TVs support the use of component video up to their native resolution."

Which is fine unless, except it doesn't explain why this very basic box does not have a power toggle. If I had to wager a guess, I'd say it is likely because of the amount of time it takes for the system to boot up, and that would make sense, but to not have a power toggle on a simple, basic box like this is just silly.

I'm hoping gadrago's suggestion of upgrading the HDMI cable helps. I'm using a spare I had that was included with my Blu-Ray, so here's hoping a better HDMI cable may fix the issue so I don't need to get back behind the entertainment rack and run another component cable.


That's fine... but because it doesn't.. why don't you use component?
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Postby MarcBMA » Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:45 am

KennyJ wrote:That's fine... but because it doesn't.. why don't you use component?

Because then I'd have nothing to bitch about. :lol:

Seriously, I set up my equipment with the extra HDMI cable runs for future equipment, and I'm simply not looking forward to having to pulled out the receiver and running clunky component cables. I'll try the better-grade HDMI cable and see if that works, and if not, break down and run the component cable.

Also, to the person who noted using the "Home" keep to wake it up; tried that a few times, and no success.

I'll report back when the cables arrive from Monoprice (who noted this morning this is a common problem).
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Postby jcmolet » Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:55 am

MarcBMA wrote:
KennyJ wrote:That's fine... but because it doesn't.. why don't you use component?

Because then I'd have nothing to bitch about. :lol:

Seriously, I set up my equipment with the extra HDMI cable runs for future equipment, and I'm simply not looking forward to having to pulled out the receiver and running clunky component cables. I'll try the better-grade HDMI cable and see if that works, and if not, break down and run the component cable.

Also, to the person who noted using the "Home" keep to wake it up; tried that a few times, and no success.

I'll report back when the cables arrive from Monoprice (who noted this morning this is a common problem).



Just an FYI, the latest HDMI cable standard is 1.4, although 1.3a,b or c will suffice.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI

Also, if you have your heart set on using HDMI throughout your setup and you don't mind spending another $100, I think you will find that the HM-31 is just about the best HDMI switch you can find.

http://www.oppodigital.com/hm31/

Good luck.
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Re: Roku freezes when idle; needs power cycled to reset.

Postby VANEPS » Sat Mar 31, 2012 6:44 am

I see much mention of using component cables. My Roku 2 xs has only composite cable and hdmi outputs. I get freeze ups using either hdmi or composites and have found no other way to wake it up is to remove power and then power back up. This appears to be a common problem that indicates poor design.
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Re: Roku freezes when idle; needs power cycled to reset.

Postby knuckle » Sat Mar 31, 2012 6:58 am

Hi vaneps------------

by freeze ups you are talking the green screen issue in the op or the box just becomes unresponsive?

what firmware are you running?
ROKU 1 XD J0A113014862
ROKU 2 LT 16A182002191
ROKU 2 LT #2 16A19K025194
ROKU HD 18D2CP067635
all running wireless on a Netgear WNR 1000
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