Hi brosler,

welcome to the forums.

brosler wrote:

I tested the supply out and it's putting out 5.12V unplugged/unloaded and 4.05V when plugged-in/loaded.

4.05 volt under load means that the PSU is faulty.

found a variable output supply that I had picked up from Radio Shack and dialed in 5.25V under load ... and still no go.

No variable power supply which I ever came across delivered the amperage needed by the M1001. Could you tell us the specs of your supply?

Greetings
dupondt

Roku M1001 died! Came downstairs to the family room and it seemed awfully dark. That's because my Roku wasn't lit.
Tried everything. Since my entertainment center is packed with eveything including a 60" TV, I didn't feel like moving the center.
I ordered a WD TV Live thinking that it would do the same as my Roku. Well, it didn't. I just set it up yesterday and still can't figure out how to get my music and pics to show up. And it is not Rhapsody and iTunes user friendly!!!!!!!!
Anyway, I had disconnected my Roku with the power cord. Went to the room where my router is and plugged in the Roku. NOTHING. Then I remembered the I had an extra AC adapter, however it was 15v.
Plugged it into the Roku and it lit up. I immediately disconnected it because I didn't want it to fry the Roku since the original adapter is 5v. Now I'm going to get another adapter, hopefully from Radio Shack and if not then I will order from LCD Payeless. FOR ALL OF YOU READING THIS, CHECK OUT THE POWER SUPPLY FIRST BEFORE DITCHING THE UNIT!!!!!
I love my Roku, however, that WD TV Live, I haven't decided yet as to what use it will do me. What a waste of money!!!
Thanks for listening!!!!

---L

LDLDL wrote:

Then I remembered the I had an extra AC adapter, however it was 15v.
Plugged it into the Roku and it lit up. I immediately disconnected it because I didn't want it to fry the Roku since the original adapter is 5v.

If your Roku supply was 5 volts and if the other supply actually tried to deliver 15 volts then you have definitely fried it now, even if it wasn't before! I realise that you may not be an electronics expert, but feeding a device with three times its rated voltage is certainly never to be recommended, and can only be described either brave or foolish (depending on where you stand).

However, it is also very possible that the 15 volt supply may not have been able to supply enough current. In that case, it would not have been able to deliver 15 volts to the Roku, and therefore it may very well not have fried it, and you may have got away with not having done any lasting damage. Here's hoping....

Les.

LDLDL wrote:

Then I remembered the I had an extra AC adapter, however it was 15v.
Plugged it into the Roku and it lit up. I immediately disconnected it because I didn't want it to fry the Roku since the original adapter is 5v.
---L

I agree with Les, don't try this, there is a 5.6volt Zener that you can blow up too. Also, most M1001 take about 10-15 sec to show any sign of life when you plug them in which makes using the wrong one even more dangerous. I know some M1001's will power right up immediately when power is applied, but most of them that I deal with take the 10-15 sec.

Also, Roku sells the power supply for $14 to the door if your in the US and if they are out of stock, the one for their DVP works and it rated with a higher amperage which makes it more robust.
http://shop.roku.com/SoundBridge-Produc ... s-W11.aspx
http://shop.roku.com/Webpage2.aspx?WebpageId=2

Hi All:

Well, looks like I've joined the dead M1001 club. Just got back from a week's vacation and found a blank screen on the unit. Since the unit is plugged into a power center inside my audio/video cabinet with difficult access to the back, all I've done so far is to unplug the power plug from the back of the M1001 and reinserted (no change). From reading this thread and others, I assume the wall wart has gone bad. Any other things to check before I start moving stuff to unplug from the power center? Any chance that unplugging from the power center, waiting a bit and replugging there is any different from unplugging from the back of the M1001?

If it is the wall wart, I'd like to replace it. Roku is out of stock on their power supply, which says 5V. It appears that the DVP power supply is a suitable replacement from what others have reported, but was wondering if there's any difference between the 5V of the M1001's power supply and the 5.2V shown for the DVP power supply. Thanks in advance for your comments.

gcd0865 wrote:

If it is the wall wart, I'd like to replace it. Roku is out of stock on their power supply, which says 5V. It appears that the DVP power supply is a suitable replacement from what others have reported, but was wondering if there's any difference between the 5V of the M1001's power supply and the 5.2V shown for the DVP power supply. Thanks in advance for your comments.

Hi - there is no practical difference. The extra 0.2 volts is often specified in power supplies to allow for some voltage drop along the wire and through the connectors. In any case the 5 volts on the original would be subject to variations from one unit to another, and the SoundBridge would be OK with small differences such as this.

Hi,
my m1001 is dead

The PSU gives me constant
5.120 V
when disconnected, this varies between
4.450 V and 4.650 V
when connected.

Is the PSU dead or is this in tolerance?

dartrax

dartrax wrote:

Is the PSU dead

Yes, it is.

Greetings
dupondt

Thanks for your quick reply.

Since you are also from germany, do you have a link to a psu that works and can be obtained in DE?

Thank you again,
dartrax

dartrax wrote:

do you have a link to a psu that works and can be obtained in DE?

Conrad have some very fine PSUs for the SoundBridge:

1) Phihong PSAA15W-050 Tischnetzteil (Bestellnummer 511476-62)

2) Phihong PSC30U-050 Tischnetzteil (Bestellnummer 511591-62)

3) Phihong PSA15R-050 Steckernetzteil (Bestellnummer 511584-62)

4) VOLTCRAFT SPS 2500-5 Steckernetzteil (Bestellnummer 511634-62)

5) Dehner SYS1308 Steckernetzteil (Bestellnummer 510820-62)

I recommend the Phihong PSC30U-050 (No. 2), these PSUs don't even get lukewarm with my M1001s.

Greetings
dupondt

That list saves a lot of time for me! Thanks

dartrax

I made some investigation with equal problem using a powerfull adjustable laboratory power supply. the M1001 requires approx 4.25V and quite much current. the boot up seems to activate chips increasing the current consumption. when booted up completely my unit required approx 0.81A. if the input voltage is below mentioned above, my unit restarted after displaying text "let's play music" och didn't start at all.

When the problem occured my original power supply provided 4.9V when loaded according to a voltage meter. I suspect the voltage was dropped down during the boot up phase and that couldn't seen in the voltage meter (didn't try with oscilloscope). so I opened the power supply and changed the secondary stage 470uF 16V elko capacitor to a new one. that helped me and now my M1001 is working again caution when replacing the elko should be taken because the power supply is a very small sized switching power supply and turns to be quite hot. original 105 celcius degrees elko seems not to last for ever...

regards,
petri

phy wrote:

I made some investigation with equal problem using a powerfull adjustable laboratory power supply. the M1001 requires approx 4.25V and quite much current.

Just to avoid confusing people - the M1001 requires 5.0 volts. It will work over a small range of voltages (nominally 5.0 +/- 10%). Your unit happened to start working at 4.25 volts, but that is below the minimum supply voltage for some of the parts and can not be relied upon.

You are right that changing the capacitor in the supply could fix it. However there are other parts in the supply, including other capacitors, which would age over time and which may also need replacing to ensure longer term reliability.

As a point of safety, I would NOT recommend anyone to open up one of these supplies and start replacing parts unless they are suitably qualified, experienced, and fully understand the risks. On European mains voltages (over 240 volts AC in some parts of the UK) the maximum stored voltage on the main reservoir capacitor would be in the region of 350 to 400 volts DC with enough stored charge to cause serious injury or even to kill.

Regards,

Les.


Oooh - my 1000th post. Almost 4 years since my first.

I don't mean to sound glib or snotty, but just order the $10 replacement wall wart. I tried all of the work arounds; even bought an Apple TV (the only outputs are HDMI, if you have an older sound system, no dice). As a last-ditch effort, I ordered a new power supply (wall wart) and life is good. I don't know why other warts don't work, but the replacement does. Spend the money, get a new wall wart, and let the music play.
BTW, I looked into the Roku TV, and it seems that getting it to access your music/ video library on your PC is difficult, if not impossible. If you just want access to your Itunes or other PC based media, the Soundbridge is the thing to have.

pshotola wrote:

I don't mean to sound glib or snotty, but just order the $10 replacement wall wart.

That's fine - but outside the US and Canada shipping from Roku is about three times the price of the adaptor - hardly reasonable from the user's point of view. Second, history suggests that third-party adaptors such as those specified are likely to be significantly more reliable.