Can anyone recommend a replacement PSU for an M500? I've read the helpful forum posts with the required specs, but can't seem to locate a suitable PSU online.

You don't say which country. Check your local ebay, there is usually a wide choice there. Note that the amp mentioned in this thread is the minimum value, it is ok to use a PSU with a higher ampage spec, however the voltage must be exactly as specified. Ask the reseller if their ad is not clear.

Right, I should have said that I am in the US. Are there particular PSUs for the M500 that people can recommend? I understand that ebay is likely to be a good source. Thanks.

You might look at this:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/AC-Adapter-Charger-For-Roku-SoundBridge-M500-Digital-Media-Streamer-Power-Supply-/140763646117?pt=US_Power_Supplies&hash=item20c62ac8a5

Thank you for this 46jimbo. My concern is that, although the PSU is listed as being for the M500, the ebay seller doesn't provide the specs of the unit that (s)he is offering, so it's not possible to know if the unit actually complies with the M500's requirements. In fact the picture of the unit shows a power cord that doesn't appear to have the barrel plug needed by the M500.

The seller is located in the U.S. and they claim to have 24/7 live support, so I would contact them directly with your questions.

They also appear to be able to create the PSU you want. Quote: "We are Specialists in OEM AC power adapter for many devices and equipments. .... We can custom-make any Voltages, Amperages and various connectors power supply. . "

Hi jbottom,
Can you post a picture of your charger? Does it mean that the charger posted by 46jimbo is not match to the one you are looking for?


PCB assembly quote

I listen to internet radio with my M1001 every day, so when it was dark one morning recently I knew what to do from this post. Using the specifications here, I ordered a replacement AC adapter from DigiKey, part number 237-1387-ND. Total cost was $14.28 with shipping. It's working great and I'm back in business.

I do some electronics work, so I hooked up a bench power supply at 5V until the AC adapter arrived. This worked well and proved the AC adapter was the problem. The power supply also had a current meter, which showed the M1001 drawing slightly less than 1A (note this would be an average current, and not a peak reading). The adapter I ordered was rated at 3A, which is definitely overkill. The extra capacity doesn't hurt, but I think a less expensive 1.5A or 2A AC adapter would work. In my opinion, the AC adapter failure was more due to a component failure than inadequate current capacity. My original adapter lasted well over 5 years of continuous use and I think it would have failed much sooner if it was being overdrawn.

First, I'm in the US. I have 7 Soundbridges: 5 here in the Phoenix area (3 in service, 2 spares), and 2 at our "heat getaway" in Oregon. Second, I have some electronic experience, so what I mention here is for those with similar backgrounds.

I blush to say that, when needed, I buy my Soundbridge (SB) power supplies at thrift stores, such as Goodwill, Savers, etc. Recently the bedroom SB began making a sputtering noise not related to the powered speakers serving it. I checked and found that the SB's power supply appeared to be an original, rated at 1.5A. I had a 5V/2.6A "Goodwill" unit but it had the wrong 5V plug for the SB, so that had to be swapped out, being careful to observe center=positive when doing so. The SB's running again, no more sputtering noise, and I anticipate a good life for it.

Regarding buying power supplies at thrift stores: Most units found there were associated with, but are now separated from, other stuff donated there. Their price is usually $1.00 - $1.99. You find them hanging by the dozens on hooks. I buy only "switching" types, NEVER the heavy transformer units, and only 5V DC Out units with output current rating of 2.0A or more. The unit ratings are usually printed on the outside of the unit somewhere. The correct SB plug, if you don't have one around, can be found at a Radio Shack or similar store. Some soldering skill is required; if you don't have it, there's usually a neighbor around who has. Most importantly, before plugging into the SB, be absolutely sure that the center terminal is +, and that the open circuit output voltage is 5.0 - 5.3 V.

Thanks for your post.
The power went out on my M1001. It was a used replacement I bought awhile ago. I didn't change out the power adapter but just used the one already plugged in.
I still had the new one that I swapped in and it powered right up.
This is the 2nd time I got bit by not changing over to a new power adapter. Maybe I'll remember to change the power adapters when replacing equipment.
Thanks again.

I have three M2000 units and have now got two with dead power adapters. They are only outputting around 7V instead of the correct 24V.

Maplin don't seem to list a suitable replacement anymore i.e. one which outputs 24V DC, 0.75Amps, regulated power, and center pole positive. After some searching the following seems a suitable replacement.

See

Not sure why they seem to list the same item twice at different prices.

If anyone else still reads these forums, confirmation that this seems to be the correct specification would be much appreciated.

Hi jelockwood,

[quote=]If anyone else still reads these forums, confirmation that this seems to be the correct specification would be much appreciated.[/quote]

both power supplies meet the specifications for the M2000.

Greetings
dupondt

Greetings, a few of us still read these forums. Always try a new power supply before trashing these excellent devices! I have 4 M2000s that are working fine, one I had to change the daughter board - I pulled one from an M1000 with a burnt display. The original M1000 (connectors on side) and M2000 both suffer from poor soldering on the daughterboard (has the network chip). These can be fixed.

I have a Soundbridge M2000 that has failed (likely caused by a power failure/restoration).

The red LED in the optical port is lit, two small green LEDs adjacent to the Ethernet port are lit, but the display is completely dead. I've tested the power supply (in fact, I replaced it with a regulated 24VDC unit with a 2A capacity), and that is not the problem.

Does anyone have any idea which components have likely failed, or what to investigate, or any troubleshooting steps/tips?

I've tried contacting both Matt Burkhard and Peter Hillyer from this forum, but haven't received a response to either email or PM. I'm guessing they no longer repair these.

I really want to revive this, so any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks...

I just wanted to confirm (as reported by Maximus back in June 2013) that DigiKey part no. 237-1387-ND (see https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=237-1387-ND) works well as a replacement for a dead Roku M1001 power supply.  The DigiKey part is available in Canada (and presumably also in the USA) as of July 2017.