Your Digital Media Has Never Looked So Good

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DJans
Posts: 122
Joined: Tue Jun 20, 2006 7:06 am
Location: Germany

Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:46 am

Is somebody here who had a fault PSU in his R1000 and replaced it by a 12V PSU and now uses the 12V solution for a longer period of time?

I want to know if it is really safe to use the diplay/streaming unit with the 12V. I read above that it should be powered up to 25V but there must be a reason ROKU uses the 9.5V instead of 19V solution. :?:

I am repairing a dead R1000 (speaker amp dead, PSU dead) and have replaced the digital amps by 12V/10W amp modules and I now want to use a single 12V/3A supply to power the whole unit including the display/streaming module. And I do not want to place an additional 7809 because it produces a lot of additional heat.
 
Chage
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 5:44 am

Sat May 16, 2009 9:02 pm

My PSU went faulty last week. After pulling it apart I figured it would be far easier to replace the PSU entirely with a 12V Supply.

I have actually replaced it with a "Brick" externally, as it's not easy to get a suitably sized enclosed one. Drilled a small hole and put a power socket in the side.

It appears to be running fine of the 12V supply I have. AM Radio is a bit noisy though, which I suspect is more to do with the proximity of the switch mode supply rather than a fault of the radio itself.
 
Mikefritz
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:02 am
Location: St. Augustin, Germany

Precautions recommended?

Sun May 17, 2009 12:05 pm

My first Soundbrige Radio (Pinnacle branded) went dead after 14 months. Fortunately Amazon.de reimbursed the full amount, since we have 2 years customer warranty here in Germany. Now I bought my second radio (Roku branded) directly from the manufacturer, because I really love it. But how long will it survive? Is ist perhaps recommended to separate the unit from power supply as long as it is not in use?
Should one do some of the repairs recommended here in advance, in order to prevent he unit from greater damage?
Thanking you for any recommendations
Mike
It's not dark yet.
 
alanmc
Posts: 1391
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:40 am
Location: Bedfordshire - U.K.

Sun May 17, 2009 1:17 pm

@ Mike
Just ‘how long is a piece of string’ (as we say here in England).
You might be lucky and not have problems with the audio side of your R1000 when the PSU eventually fails . . . . as has happened to some owners.

Does your R1000 have the fabled “Warranty Stickerâ€
 
Mikefritz
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:02 am
Location: St. Augustin, Germany

Mon May 18, 2009 11:27 am

Many thanks, Alan,
this was a lot of good news for today - let's hope it will stay on.
Best regards
Mikefritz
It's not dark yet.
 
howgil
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu May 28, 2009 3:23 pm

Thanks everyone. I fixed mine for $24

Thu May 28, 2009 3:33 pm

Pyramid PS3 3-Amp 13.8-Volt Power Supply; $17 from Amazon.

Tamper Proof Star Torx Bit Set T7 T8 T9 T10 T15 T20 T25; $7 from eBay

Repair time under 2 hours.

Thanks to the info in this thread, I found it an easy repair.

Many thanks!!
 
goyaviet
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 9:59 am

Mon Jun 15, 2009 2:16 pm

Hi.
Any one know where to buy the :"Schottky Diode SB260" in uk
thank
 
S80_UK
Posts: 1035
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:11 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, UK

Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:16 pm

goyaviet wrote:
Hi.
Any one know where to buy the :"Schottky Diode SB260" in uk
thank

It'll probably cost an arm and a leg for postage, but Digikey's UK site lists them...

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... -1414-6-ND

It may be better to try and find a close equivalent.

And Anglia Components list it, but I don't know whether they would sell small volumes...

http://www.angliacomponents.co.uk/invac ... mber=sb260
Roku M1000, M1001, M2000, R1000, Roberts WM-201, Stream 83i
 
inernetradiosavedmylife
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:04 pm

Quick fix

Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:23 pm

All,
I'm amazed at how helpful everyone has been so decided to give something back...

My once amazing Soundbridge Radio died after a year and two months (do they do that on purpose so it's just outside of warranty?).
Took it to bits carefully following the helpful instructions. SUre enough, inside the PSU the 220uF cap and the schottkey had frazzled.

Now I work in the electronics industry, and whilst the PSU looks a bit heath robinson, it's the thermal design of the unit that shocks me most. Electrolytic caps are renowned for having poor life (which drops off very quickly at higher temps) and the fact that the PSU is in a sealed box, which contains a virtually sealed plastic in which the PSU is glued is v. bad. The PSU didn't stand a chance long term so I'm not surprised at these failures.
Also, I can confirm ~450mA constant draw from the 9.5V rail regardless of whether the unit is on or off. This alone is over drawing compared with the PSU rating.

Since the design is fundamentally flawed, I did the following:-

- Removed the PSU (taking care not to damage the class D amp PCB for the sub)
- Removed the mains inlet, (scalpel and flat blade screwdriver)
- Snipped the four wires from output of the PSU (0, +9.5, 0, +19.5)
- Stuck the wires out the back through the mains inlet hole

Free of the PSU, I tried connecting a switched mode PSU (1 amp 9v) I bought from ebay to 0v, black (either is fine) and red, which is the 9.5v supply.
Soundbridge booted up fine! So was definitely the PSU that failed.

Just out of interest, I also connected the blue amp supply to +9V also and the whole thing works fine. Obviously the amplifier stages are happy running at a lower voltage.

Volume seems excellent still (at least in my kitchen) and all works perfectly - couldn't hear any degradation in sound quality from the lower voltage. I actually ordered a 19v cheap laptop supply for the amp circuit but to be honest, I think I'll just run the whole lot from 9v as it does me fine.

So don't fret if you don't fancy mending the PSU - remove it and bin it and wire up a 9V regulated 1 amp adapter and your radio will live again!

Thanks all again.
Ed
 
moosh
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:03 am
Location: Madison, WI

Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:03 pm

Thanks so much to all the folks who've done the legwork to make my job fixing my SBR that much easier. I opted for the 12v (1A) wall wart solution since that's what I had lying around. I hooked it up and...nothing. But I did get a hot odor coming from the main unit (no I didn't have the polarity backwards on the supply ;-). After opening the main unit I think I discovered the culprit. When my PSU went down it looks like it took the CM2596 with it.

I did a quick check at both Mouser and Digikey but neither stock that exact part. I did find several LM2596 but am not sure which would be an appropriate stand-in. Has anyone replaced the CM2596 or know where to get one?

Thanks in advance!
Mike
 
inernetradiosavedmylife
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:04 pm

Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:56 am

A quick update for those of you considering using an external PSU to replace the faulty internal unit.
I originally ordered a 9V 1amp switch mode wall adapter which worked when supplying the radio main supply (red wire) and the amp (dark blue wire). However the PSU made a whining noise which was too apparent.

So I 'borrowed' a 12v 3amp switch mode plug in PSU which ran completely quiet and did the following:-

Connected the 12v line to the amp supply, and connected the 9.5v radio supply using 3x diodes in series. You can use anything really such as 1N4001 which are rated at 1amp (only needs 5-600ma so within spec). The forward voltage of these under load is about 800mv so 3x 800 = 2.4V. 12-2.4 = 9.6V or about bang on for the radio supply. You'll throw away just over a watt but since I mounted these inside the sub unit which used to have a rather large PSU it's not noticable.

Again, couldn't hear much difference in the sound (I never turn it up to 11 anyway) between 9V or 12v on the amp supply despite being rated at 19v.

So an easy fix needing just the PSU and 3 rectifier diodes (costing less than 50p) and I can happily report a fully functional soundbridge radio.

My advice - just ditch the internal flawed PSU and thermal design and go external!

Ed
 
boonp
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2007 4:18 am
Location: CAMBRIDGESHIRE

Dead Soundbridge.

Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:27 am

My soundbridge gave up the ghost Friday night.
I have taken it apart and the usual problem has occurred and also looks like several other components too.
I have read most threads and have decided to us an external switch mode power supply I connected an old laptop power supply from a Toshiba output 15v at 3a this all worked OK. Unfortunately I occasionally use this power supply for an old work laptop.

I have a Dell laptop power supply 20v at 3.5a could I use this instead and would I need any voltage regulation between power supply and soundbridge.

Any comments greatly appreciated
 
S80_UK
Posts: 1035
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:11 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, UK

Sun Jul 12, 2009 4:42 pm

I answered your other post... http://forums.rokulabs.com/viewtopic.php?t=21804

Please don't double post questions - it doesn't help anyone and make it harder to find stuff.
Roku M1000, M1001, M2000, R1000, Roberts WM-201, Stream 83i
 
sausagePaws
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2007 4:49 pm

Fri Jul 24, 2009 5:19 am

Hi spiffy_chimp,

Thanks for your excellent guide for getting in to the radio PSU.

The usual suspects (220uF and schottky) were fried! Replaced the schottky with a MBR360 - a touch large but the thin wire wrapped around sorted it. The ground plane pcb is a bit cheap and nasty and took a hacksaw blade to get through the yellow gunk.

You are right about it looking like take a teenager to work day - that made me chuckle :lol: .

So sorted, but I must admit that the job is not for the feint hearted and/or inexperienced.

Thanks once again - much appreciated.

Steve
 
Kevin McMurtrie
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:36 am
Contact:

Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:57 pm

My Roku's power supply is a mess of burned parts under burned glue in a smokey smelling woofer box. I did some searching and it looks like a Mean Well PD-2512 is a perfect match. Cut the tips of two corners off and it fits. Output is +/- 12V at 1A. Since the output is isolated, that can just as easily be +12V and +24V. It powers up the Roku fine and I'll do some more testing to see how stable the unbalanced load is. I'm not re-using that plastic box of metallic duct tape so more work is on hold until I build proper enclosure of perforated aluminum.
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