Your Digital Media Has Never Looked So Good

 
S80_UK
Topic Author
Posts: 1035
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:11 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, UK

HD1000 with built-in Wi-Fi and alternative PSU

Sun May 06, 2007 12:39 pm

Hi All,

Thought you may like to see this. I recently bought an HD1000 rev B just to play with and decided that apart from changing out the power supply (which was getting past it) that there was some other "customisation" that I could do. This is what I ended up with...

The WiFi installation was based on the circuit board from a Netgear Wireless Gaming Adaptor (model WGE111) taken out of its box and just mounted on a couple of insulated spaces using two existing holes in the PCB and two new holes in the chassis.

Image

The RJ-45 and DC jack just happen to line up with hole for the former mains inlet and I cut a new 16mm hole for the antenna. As you can see, I haven't yet got around to changing the input voltage markings!

Image

The great thing about this is that I can run wired if I want to, or 802.11g wireless with a short Cat-5 cable between the two RJ-45s as in the bottom photo, and I can also wire direct to the adaptor if I need to change its configuration.

The new power supply is based on a couple of evaluation boards from Texas Instruments for their TPS54550 switched mode power supply chip (the boards were only $10 each plus shipping). By default these are set to 3.3 volts, so a quick resistor value change as per their supplied literature allowed one of them to give 5 volts. in this set up these will take from around 7 to 17V as an input and can give more than enough current. I chose to use a spare 12 volt supply that I had kicking around. I modified the Netgear board so that the DC socket was disconnected by removing the yellow-orange thermal cutout (since the Netgear normally takes only a 5 volt input), and I wired the DC jack to these two boards. Their outputs are fed to the HD1000 using its original connector, and the 5v is also wired back to the Netgear board. I added a couple of extra input decoupling capacitors (the big orange tantalum bead in my photo), and also a slow start capacitor to the 3.3 volt board (again refer to the TI docs) since the HD1000 has a lot of capacitance and the in-rush current was a bit on the high side for the regulator. Both are boards mounted using spacers.

Image

Having got a good supply, and the WiFi working I looked at cooling for the main board, since the graphics processor runs quite warm and the regulator for the processor core (1.5 volts) gets very hot. I found a slim, low-noise 12 volt PC fan on eBay and used it with a resistor in the supply line from my new DC input to quieten it even further. The fan also had a speed sense wire - this is still present but not connected. A few holes with a drill and a 25mm punch and...

Image

I am very pleased with the end result - and it was pretty cheap too...

Image

Now all I need to do is to get some more disk space for all those DVD's that I want to move out of the living room!
 
Burkhardi
Posts: 1943
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 11:06 am
Location: Austin, Texas ...Y'all

Sun May 06, 2007 1:30 pm

Nice work, looks like a clean install too.
Roku3 and Roku HD1000 [Rev B] on a Samsung HLP5674W DLP in the living room; a Roku2 and two Roku XS and a few SoundBridges.Win7; Kubuntu and XP via RT-N66U, E2000 and a switch or two. I own stock in Roku, it's just all in the form of hardware.Viva la Roku
 
andy
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 7:54 pm
Contact:

Tue May 08, 2007 7:14 am

I'll second that. Very nice hack. Thanks for posting the pictures, that's really cool.
Andy Oliver
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S80_UK
Topic Author
Posts: 1035
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:11 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, UK

Tue May 08, 2007 7:36 am

Hi Matt, Andy,

Thanks for the positive feedback.

Let me know if you need any more information.

BTW - I did some temperature measurements last night - the airflow cools the ATI graphics chip by about 10 - 12 deg celcius (by around 18 - 20 deg in US speak), so it clearly helps. And as I mentioned to Matt in a PM, the top of the case is pretty much cold to the touch which is nice. The small hole which remains where the mains socket once was now acts as an exhaust vent, and I can measure an equivalent 10-12 deg C rise in the temperature of the air blowing out of this hole.

Strangely, the 1.5v regulator seems hardly affected - still very hot (I get 72 deg C - or about 162 deg F). I may try soldering a couple of small fins directly onto its heatsink tab when I can find something suitable.

I'll let you know what happens...

Cheers.

Les.
 
Burkhardi
Posts: 1943
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 11:06 am
Location: Austin, Texas ...Y'all

Tue May 08, 2007 8:44 am

That 1.5 VR (U12) gets instantly hot once you power the unit up, also once you kill AC power it cools in seconds. If you unplug it, and walk with the unit over to a table, by the time you touch it or measure it, it's cool to the touch. For a funny test that shows how slow your (or at least mine) brain moves pain data, unplug the unit, wait about 10 seconds, put the tip of you finger on top of U12 and then plug the unit in. By the time you sence it's hot, you have already burned the crud out of your finger tip...LOL
How do I know this..I'll never tell :wink: :oops:

For what it's worth, perhaps you are helping a tad with your fan (with u12), beacuse I was measuring 200F on that unit without any sink or fan.
Roku3 and Roku HD1000 [Rev B] on a Samsung HLP5674W DLP in the living room; a Roku2 and two Roku XS and a few SoundBridges.Win7; Kubuntu and XP via RT-N66U, E2000 and a switch or two. I own stock in Roku, it's just all in the form of hardware.Viva la Roku
 
na9d
Posts: 491
Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 11:17 am
Location: Algonquin, IL
Contact:

Thu May 10, 2007 8:52 pm

Very nice work. Impressive.
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