I replaced 5 caps- 3x 2200uf, 1x 470uf and 1x 47 uf based on a post by BJJohns. The MOSFET and PWM chip were still good. I bought extras on all parts since I knew I would eventually need to fix another one. As I said, my living room HD1000 is running much warmer than the new one so I plan to do a premptive cap replacement.
Is there a 6th cap that you have been replacing as well? I do not remember if there were other electrolytics besides the big input cap you mention.
Good idea for the old HD1000. It actually works pretty well using the wireless for all except using Mplay for movies. I used it to view photos from a Buffalo Link Station, play MP3s, and run WeatherSix.
Yes, there is an additional cap in the grassy knoll ...
Its hidden under the heat sink/cover, its a second 47uf (location C5) behind the PWM Chip (not the dual OP-AMP DIP chip). This is/was from memory, so bare with me...
2200uf - X3
470 uf - X1
47uf - X2 (one by the three black ground wires and the other under the sink)
68uf @400v - X1 (the big honk'n one)
Yes, replace the ones in the other REV-B, with the new high quality ones you have. With those poor quality OEM ones, it's just going to get hotter and hotter and then fail.
Roku3 and Roku HD1000 [Rev B] on a Samsung HLP5674W DLP in the living room; a Roku2 and two Roku XS and a few SoundBridges.Win7; Kubuntu and XP via RT-N66U, E2000 and a switch or two. I own stock in Roku, it's just all in the form of hardware.Viva la Roku