I also had another unit that has an OEM supply that I rebuilt, one of the items I addressed in the rebuild was replacement the electrolytic capacitors with better quality ones. I also moved the power resister away from the grove of capacitors so they would not get so hot and a couple other items were addressed too. So for this test, I am not really using an OEM supply per se.
TEST-1: After 2hrs at room temp (77F), sitting on the floor powered up, side by side, I measured the top of the cases and this is what I got.
Morex = 89 on the left (over the supply) and 82 on the right.
Rebuilt OEM = 92 on the left (over the supply) and 82 on the right.
TEST-2: I ran each unit for an hour in my entertainment system with the door closed and used SlimRoku to play music served from my PC, as well as watch a slideshow of pictures off my PC at the same time. I did this for each unit. I ran the OEM one first, then the Morex. The temp in the cabinet was ~80F.
Morex = 97 on the left (over the supply) and 89 on the right
Rebuilt OEM = 101 on the left (over the supply) and 91 on the right.
Today, I ran each unit in the cabinet for several hours and the data matched TEST-2 from last night.
I would really like to be able to do the same test, but with an untouched OEM setup.
A couple of thoughts...
1. The Morex didn't run that much cooler then the rebuilt OEM supply.
2. Does the OEM supply run a lot hotter before it dies then when it's new or rebuilt?
3. Are most people running a fan with their Morex supplies?
4. I need to get a hold of a working unit that has an untouched OEM supply in it and see what temp is runs at.
So in closing, what are other Morex users seeing?
What temp does your unit run with a Morex in it and do you use a fan?
Is your unit warm to the touch or cool? I would assume that cool would be 85F or less.
I did see a little better responce with the remote control with the Morex (like others have stated), but I also saw that (better range and snappier responce) with one rebuilt OEM unit that had it's 3.3V at 3.4V. Most of the OEM supplies are 3.25V (I want to say the Morex was 3.35V). So I wonder if the better remote range is more due to the fact that the voltage is at 3.3V, and not lower? I am pretty sure the 3.3v goes to the ATI ARM/CPU, I know the remotes IR codes do. I need to look at the OEM supply some more and see if there are any resistors that can be change to change the output voltage. There are no pots to adjust on these suppllies. I assume there is some sort of adj to the 8pin controller DIP that can control this, I just need to look into it some more.
I also know that if the OEM supply has enough noise on it, that the remote will stop working all together. So I wonder as the supplies get closer to failing, do they get noisier too and cause the remote's performace to go down hill too?
What I may do next, is take the OEM supply that has the 3.4V out and put it into a unit that has a slugish remote and see if it makes it more robust or not.
Regards, Matt
Here are the pictures of my Morex install in my HD1000. You can click on the link below each one for a larger view.

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... e-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... t-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... t-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... r-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... r-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... SU-800.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... e-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... p-1024.jpg
GOT ROKU?

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... k-1024.jpg

http://www.wizard-widgets.co.uk/roku/ma ... t-1024.jpg[/img]