Your Digital Media Has Never Looked So Good

 
Ron Tobin
Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 1:54 pm
Location: Sarasota, FL

Another one bites the dust.

Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:52 pm

You can also add my Rev B to the list. Purchased 1/19/05 and died on 2/13/06. Off it went to Roku for repair. Hopefully they'll be somewhat flexible with their one year warrantly policy, as it's only weeks out of warranty.

I hadn't seen that Rev B units were failing, too.
Ron
 
Wulgaru
Posts: 137
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:59 pm
Location: Western Springs, IL

Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:56 am

The only reason most of the units that have failed are revision A is because they are older. Now that the revision B models are reaching that age, they will start to fail as well.
 
SimonO
Posts: 394
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 11:21 am
Location: UK
Contact:

Sat Feb 25, 2006 2:14 am

My HD1000 (Rev. A) died yesterday :cry: ...
Toshiba 36ZP48, Pace Sky+ v1 (120GB), Sonos ZP80, Denon DVD-2900, Denon AVR-3805, Blue Sky SAT 6.5/B&W DM600 S3/ASW675 w/Behringer DSP1124P, Philips Pronto NG RU950/RU951
 
paulps
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 3:36 pm

I'd say replace the power supply yourself if possible

Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:45 pm

SimonO wrote:
My HD1000 (Rev. A) died yesterday :cry: ...


I'm a long time lurker of these forums but had to register to offer my experience FWIW to those who, like me , have sustained a broken HD1000 power supply.

I replaced my Rev-A HD1000 power supply a few days ago, based on the (AO's) information in this thread. However, since the Morex power supply that was specified by Andrew Oliver is normally back ordered from the specified supplier, I got one from another supplier www.logicsupply.com [60W Power Kit for Mini-ITX]. They were in stock and I received it within a couple of days of ordering. The kit was such that there was no need for soldering any wires. The trickiest part was placing the DC input connector at the back of the HD1000 where the old power supply was removed (leaving a large hole). This required attaching a small piece of metal/plastic over the gap and drilling the 3 holes to attach the internal connector.

So far the HD1000, which had been sitting idle for 6 months, is back in operation and running a whole lot cooler.
 
andy
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 7:54 pm
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Re: I'd say replace the power supply yourself if possible

Sat Mar 04, 2006 11:17 am

paulps wrote:
I replaced my Rev-A HD1000 power supply a few days ago, based on the (AO's) information in this thread.

That's great! I'm glad to hear the information helped.

paulps wrote:
However, since the Morex power supply that was specified by Andrew Oliver is normally back ordered from the specified supplier, I got one from another supplier www.logicsupply.com [60W Power Kit for Mini-ITX].

Did you use the one from this link?

http://www.logicsupply.com/product_info ... ucts_id/90

It is now showing out of stock as well. :-(

The specs for it are here:
http://www.morexintl.com/product/psu_60w.php

That does look like it inlcudes more parts than the kit from Mirai Solutions. The "no soldering required" aspect is a big plus too.
Andy Oliver
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paulps
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 3:36 pm

Re: I'd say replace the power supply yourself if possible

Mon Mar 06, 2006 8:09 am

andy wrote:
paulps wrote:
I replaced my Rev-A HD1000 power supply a few days ago, based on the (AO's) information in this thread.

That's great! I'm glad to hear the information helped.

paulps wrote:
However, since the Morex power supply that was specified by Andrew Oliver is normally back ordered from the specified supplier, I got one from another supplier www.logicsupply.com [60W Power Kit for Mini-ITX].

Did you use the one from this link?

http://www.logicsupply.com/product_info ... ucts_id/90

It is now showing out of stock as well. :-(

The specs for it are here:
http://www.morexintl.com/product/psu_60w.php

That does look like it inlcudes more parts than the kit from Mirai Solutions. The "no soldering required" aspect is a big plus too.


Yes... It seems the Logicsupply PS that I got is no longer in stock. Perhaps a HD1000 user (or repairer) made a bulk order :lol:

Logicsupply do show some other PS in stock - some of which may still work with the Roku.
 
zephyr
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 12:53 pm

Oh, no, now it's my turn.

Sat Mar 11, 2006 12:45 pm

Last weekend I went to reboot my Roku and it didn't come back. No video, no green LED, nothing. Guess it's my turn to repair or replace the power supply. I've had my Roku quite a while, say 18 months or so, in a FAN COOLED RACK, but even that seems not to have avoided this outcome.

Has anyone else verified that replacing the 47 microfarad capacitor and 3842B are routinely adequate for this repair?

Or should I try the Morex PS from Mirai or the one from Logicsupply? (What's the difference?)

-zephyr
 
Cris Moore
Posts: 79
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:18 pm
Location: OR

Sun Mar 12, 2006 12:06 pm

Has anyone else verified that replacing the 47 microfarad capacitor and 3842B are routinely adequate for this repair?

My PhotoBridge is still working (knock on wood), but when it does bite it I'm going try this fix first.

I was going to go ahead and order the parts so that I had them on hand when it happened. I was wondering if it would be worth it to get a High Temp Electrolytic Capacitor to replace the 47uF instead of just a standard generic electrolytic cap?

Cris
 
aceface
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 9:19 am
Location: RYE, NY
Contact:

Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:39 am

I went to turn my HD 1000 on today and nada...she was cold to the touch. My grief has been an emotional rollercoaster ride between sadness and anger. Although i consider myself one of the lucky ones since I have a REV. A for over 2 years...since i wouldn't consider myself a competent tech i'll probably bite the dust and send it in to ROKU for reincarnation. :( :x :( :evil:
SOLD!! ROKU rev.A w/swap card w/rewired PSU
XBOX360
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dtaubert
Posts: 97
Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 3:06 pm

Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:39 am

Cris Moore wrote:
I was going to go ahead and order the parts so that I had them on hand when it happened. I was wondering if it would be worth it to get a High Temp Electrolytic Capacitor to replace the 47uF instead of just a standard generic electrolytic cap?


I would definitely go for the 105°C electrolytic over the 85°C. Even the high grade would appear to be not enough for the design...

Derek
 
Cris Moore
Posts: 79
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:18 pm
Location: OR

Wed Mar 15, 2006 12:11 pm

dtaubert wrote:
Cris Moore wrote:
I was going to go ahead and order the parts so that I had them on hand when it happened. I was wondering if it would be worth it to get a High Temp Electrolytic Capacitor to replace the 47uF instead of just a standard generic electrolytic cap?


I would definitely go for the 105°C electrolytic over the 85°C. Even the high grade would appear to be not enough for the design...

Derek


I guess my only concern would be that another component could be damaged by the excess heat if the cap doesn't go first.
 
aceface
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 9:19 am
Location: RYE, NY
Contact:

Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:56 am

A question for A.O. -
I'm attempting to fix my ROKU power supply following your directions. I'm a novice at this so bear with me.
On Step 4 and 5 i am splicing the power supply wires together from the new power motherboard and the HD1000 power. Can the remaining wire's from the new power motherboard (the 20 pin connector) be simply cut off and discarded or is there some relevance to having those wires still attached???

Also the six inches of 18 gauge from the DC connector...is that length due to putting the power pins closest to the front of the HD1000?

thank you in advance.

and btw im going for the extra credit of adding fans :)
SOLD!! ROKU rev.A w/swap card w/rewired PSU

XBOX360

SONY 3000ES Digital Receiver

SONY 37" Plasma

Ethernet & Wi-Fi Network

Verizon FiOs

WIN XP & MAC OS X

Buffalo Technologies Link Station server
 
aceface
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 9:19 am
Location: RYE, NY
Contact:

Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:18 pm

So i completed the homejob cooling solution per A.O.'s instructions...and the 'ol HD1000 is up and running perfectly.
Thanks Andy!!!!!!

A row of these mounted over the holes already drilled in the side would do the trick:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/i ... _FAN_.html

Derek


Unfortunately i was going for xtra credit with adding fans per Derek's suggestion, but alas the Morex pin's do not fit the plug connector from the fans. Wonder if there's an adapter ???
SOLD!! ROKU rev.A w/swap card w/rewired PSU

XBOX360

SONY 3000ES Digital Receiver

SONY 37" Plasma

Ethernet & Wi-Fi Network

Verizon FiOs

WIN XP & MAC OS X

Buffalo Technologies Link Station server
 
zephyr
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 12:53 pm

zephyr's roku is back, baby

Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:25 pm

Zephyr has fixed his Roku power supply by replacing the C5 47μF capacitor and the 3842B integrated circuit.

A few notes:

The capacitor that I replaced was a 105°C, 35V 47μF capacitor. So it was already a high-temp one. I couldn’t find a high-temp one, so I replaced it with a 85°C, 100V 47μF capacitor. It’s larger so perhaps the increased surface area will handle the heat a bit better. Its maximum rated voltage (100V) is also far greater than the operating voltage (30V) in the circuit, unlike the prior part (35V). Remember you need a capacitor with radial leads.

The existing power supply can be easily removed by 5 screws. But once removed from the Roku cabinet, a metal shield still hides the two parts that I replaced. This shield is anchored to the power supply circuit board with a solder joint in each of the four corners. It’s necessary to remove those joints, one of which is a solder blob shared with two other capacitors. There are also two screws that anchor several high power transistors to the metal cover for heat sinking purposes. You'll need to at least loosen those screws; I didn't need to completely remove them. Obviously upon replacing the IC and capacitor, you’ll need to resolder the cover back onto the power supply board.

The components are tightly packed, but not too difficult to work with. Thankfully the capacitor and the 3842B are at the top center edge of the power supply board. Remove the power supply from the Roku and most definitely don’t have it plugged in while you are working on it.

The Roku case screws are very difficult to remove. The screws are also “soft”, so it’s easy to strip the Phillips heads on them. Be careful! I suggest a few drops of Liquid Wrench on each and letting it sit for a half hour before trying a P1 Phillips bit.

I ordered parts from digikey.com. They have an extra $5.00 fee if your order is less than $25 along with some shipping charges. I encountered similar fees from all other suppliers. My parts list:
565-1151-ND        47UF 100V ELECT SMG RADIAL CAPACITOR (0.37/each)
497-4602-5-ND      IC CURRENT-MODE PWM CTRLR 8-DIP ST3842B  (1.16/each)


I avoided the $5.00 extra fee by getting a few things I needed for other projects.

Rock on,
zephyr
Last edited by zephyr on Sat Mar 18, 2006 9:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
 
Cris Moore
Posts: 79
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:18 pm
Location: OR

Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:38 pm

Excellent. Thanks for the detailed post.

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