No Power / No Component Video

skifiend · Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:05 pm

barrygordon wrote:
It would depend on the price and what Roku had to say.

Roku will probably fix an out of warranty unit for the $75 if it is ony the Power supply, You could email them and ask. I don't see why they would care as long as the unit was out of warranty

The unit will be under warranty because I'd be purchasing it from the store.

barrygordon wrote:
What is the store asking for the dead unit?

$225 is what they had said before discovering that it was dead. I may be able to talk them down a bit more for the dead unit.

barrygordon wrote:
There are Roku's for sale on ebay and they are going for about $350 (used)

There were even some "No power up units" for sale a while back

I know - and they are beyond my price point, especially for out of warranty units that will likely die any minute. Maybe'll I should just wait and see what they offer this summer or try the Buffalo Linktheater Hi-def Mediaplayer.

dgburns · Tue May 09, 2006 9:56 am

transco wrote:
Actually, I would imagine that most Roku owners hang out here and have a technical background.

Me, I'd bet far less than 10% of PhotoBridge buyers ever come to this forum.

dgburns · Tue May 09, 2006 10:05 am

barrygordon wrote:
When mine suffered a PSU failure, it was plugged into normal wall outlet (no UPS). The house has Whole House Surge suppression and I have never lost any piece of electronics due to electrical surge. I have a lot of electronics on all the time (e.g. seven PC's, all of the Home Theater equipment, all TV's etc.).

A whole house supressor won't protect one device in your house from others, will it? Spikes inside the house when the fridge turns on, potential voltage dips when the AC kicks on (I suspect VERY OFTEN in FL!), etc.?

My sister's house in Houston got hit by lightning last summer. They have whole house surge supression. The strike got in through the telephone lines (they assume due to the smoking telephone, luckily they were home!) and some poorly designed phone let the surge into the electrical system of the house and took out TV's, microwave, stero gear, baby monitor, others.

Me, I have every computer and all my home theatre stuff on UPS's. If I had the bucks, I'd go with true "online" UPS's where the output AC is ALWAYS sourced fromthe DC batteries so there is NEVER even a millisecond of brown/blackout. Tose things start at a cople grand, so no go now, but my new media room I am building will have.

barrygordon · Tue May 09, 2006 2:17 pm

Surge suppression is a very nasty thing. I live in central FL, and lightning is the major problem.

With regard to surges from inside the house from equipment start ups: All such surges are a pull down of the voltage and will rarely affect other equipment. If there is a noticable pulldown of the line voltage then the house is not adequately wired. Anything up to a 10% pull down should have no effect, and should not be seen.

I never see lights dimming or TV screens shrinking in my home, but then again I designed the electrical system, am an electrical engineer, and was a union electrician.

I have most of my media room (not the projector or the 7 channel audio amplifier) running off a small UPS. THis is to handle the often occurring power loss of 1-2 seconds.

All of my home automation equipment including the TIVA head end is on a larger UPS that will hold it for about 25 minutes. This equipment is also on the House Standby Generator that will come on within 30 seconds of a power loss with automatic transfer.

Only half the house is on the standby generator, but that is more than enough as many things in the house are gas driven (including the generator). The gas (propane) tank is buried and is 1000 gallons.

Telephone circuits and certain long RS422 data lines are on surge protection systems in addition.

In the 8 years since I built the house, I have not lost a single item

PhiDeck · Tue May 30, 2006 10:21 pm

Add me to the list of those whose HD1000's power supply died.
Rev. A hardware, purchased used on eBay in late 2004. I don't know its age, nor the amount of time it was powered prior to my acquiring it.
The brown marks on the inside of the cover are pretty faint, but the power supply smells of cooked electronics, and both outputs (3.3 and 5) are 0 Volts.

Has anyone actually measured the current drawn from both rails by the CPU board? I realize that it will vary somewhat depending on the program being run, and on the media file that it is processing. Obviously, the maximum current drawn is what's of interest in sizing a replacement power supply. I'm assuming most of the active circuits are CMOS, which draw maximum current when they're cold (unlike bipolar semiconductors).

barrygordon · Wed May 31, 2006 5:25 am

The power supply by mira mentioned several times in this thread is more than adequate to power the HD-1000. the original PSU was rated at a total of 28 watts while the recommended Mira supply is in the neighborhood of 60 watts.

PhiDeck · Wed May 31, 2006 10:57 am

I understand that the Morex 60 Watt supply appears to work for all those who have tried it:
<http://www.morexintl.com/product/psu_60w.php>

Note that the current ratings for the various rails are incorrectly specified, having been copy-pasted from the ratings for the 80W model. Hence they add up to 80.2 Watts. No telling which output current(s) would be reduced if the specs were corrected. One hopes that it is able to supply the worst case current that the HD1000 needs from the 3.3V and 5V outputs.

Also worthy of note is that the 80W model comes with the same 60 Watt AC/DC power brick as the 60 Watt model, according to that Web site. The mysteries of Marketing....

Regardless, my interest in knowing the actual maximum current requirements of the HD1000 pertains to possibly not using the Morex PS. Instead, I could perhaps recycle one or two evaluation boards for switch-mode DC/DC converters (National Semi, Linear Tech, etc.), that are left over from past projects.

To that end, if anyone has actually measured the currents drawn by the HD1000 from its power supply, I'd appreciate you sharing that information.

olllllo · Wed May 31, 2006 11:17 am

It's kind of a chicken and egg thing.
No reason to go in if it works, you might beak it (void :evil:

warrantee).
If it breaks, would have been nice to have gone in there, but now too late. :twisted:

PhiDeck · Wed May 31, 2006 11:39 am

No sooner had I posted the previous, than I found some more info about the Morex Power Supply, that clarifies some of the annomalies noted above.

The specs for the DC/DC converter are:
<http://www.morexintl.com/product/psu/morex-d2d_mechanical_drawing.pdf>
<http://www.morex.com.tw/download/files/27/SH-6080 power board spec.pdf>

The same board is used in the 60 and 80 Watt models. The only difference being the rating of the external AC/DC converter.
<http://www.morex.com.tw/qa/index.php> : Q5

(Presumably, there's a typo on the 80 W model's page)

A corollary of the above is that, for an HD1000, one may be able to use a lower power AC/DC supply (30 W?). The primary advantage being reduced size, albeit at additional cost (unless one has one lying around).

More intriguing is the use of a shared, larger, 12V supply to operate:
- HD1000 (w/Morex, or equiv.)
- Ethernet switch
- DVI/HDMI switch
- WebCam
- etc.

Donald · Wed May 31, 2006 7:12 pm

PhiDeck wrote:
More intriguing is the use of a shared, larger, 12V supply to operate:
- HD1000 (w/Morex, or equiv.)
- Ethernet switch
- DVI/HDMI switch
- WebCam
- etc.

Very good! I never thought of that! Adding PS outputs on the Roku...clever.

Don't forget:

- Cooling fan

Donald

http://rev-a-dead-roku-club.blogspot.com/

and darned glad I didn't crop too closely..... -_-

PhiDeck · Mon Jun 05, 2006 5:20 am

Actually, Donald, I think you misunderstood me.

I did not propose adding PS outputs to a modified HD1000. While the Morex DC/DC clearly has excess power capacity available, using that power to operate external devices would increase the heat dissipation within the HD1000.

My comment related to the fact that many of us have multiple devices that require 12 VDC power, each of which operates from a "wall wart" or "pregnant snake" AC/DC power supply. Those supplies take up a lot of space and power strip outlets. Moreover, because of cost considerations, they are often not very efficient. The latter is particularly true if they are linear supplies, rather than switchers.

My suggestion is that in such cases it may make sense to buy a single, high quality, switching power supply that is sized to operate all of one's 12 VDC loads, including a modified HD1000. One could distribute that power supply's output using something like:
http://www.leviton-lin.com/support/docu ... 212DCS.pdf (ignoring the included wall wart).

Kellywb · Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:52 pm

Add me to the list. Just ordered the Morex PSU for a fix.

Kelly

olllllo · Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:05 pm

Added a Poll so that we can quantify the failures.

http://www.rokulabs.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7862

chackett · Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:17 pm

dgburns wrote:
Me, I'd bet far less than 10% of PhotoBridge buyers ever come to this forum.

Then they're probably dissatisfied with their purchase, as the PB out of the box is probably only at 10-15% of the functionality that can be obtained with the information and software that's available here.

Hutch · Sun Jun 11, 2006 9:13 am

Well add me to the list. I purchased my Roku HD 1000 in August of 2004 (it was a Rev A and I took it back a month or so later and replaced it with a Rev B) and it died yesterday. Uggh. I had done some soft resets on it, walked out of the room and when I came back in the screen was frozen. Now I can't get the power light to come on, etc. It's dead for sure.

olllllo, thanks for your blog. I'll see if I can give that a shot.

Hutch

No Power / No Component Video

Another one bites the dust

Replacement Power Supply Requirements

Morex Power Supply

Re: Morex Power Supply

add another Rev. A to the list

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