Rodney,

Here are some pics of my update.

Note the connection to the MB power connectors is using an "old" P8 power supply connector that I took for a bad PC PS. I drilled one hole in the main chassis to accomodate second mounting point on the Morex PS.
I also put used the plastic which was under the original PS.












PeteC

Petec,
Good call on removing the OEM plug off the PSU's PCB, I did the same and it makes for so much more room between the PSU and the top of the case. I too used plastic between the PCB and the housing and had to drill some holes and used a couple stand offs that I had around the garage.

Great idea about the P8 plug..I love it!
Good job, Matt

BTW, you might want to put a heat sink on U12 (PM me for more details) and if it ever goes out (U12) it can be replaced, so don't ace the box! The sink is not on mine in the picture below becasue I took it right after I built it and didn't install the sink yet.

I can confirm Pyramid audio did a great job fixing the power supply and Matt kindly fixed one of my rokus at his house. It had a problem with the CF slot. I just unpacked mine after they had been put in storage during a move. I am still using mythroku regularly though don't plan any updates except to match protocol changes in mythtv. I wish that the hdpvr had encoded in mpeg2 rather than h264 as I suspect that will eventually obsolete my boxes.

One durable machine for sure.

My HD1000 will not power on. It died about a year after purchase. I finally decided to open it up. I am handy with ICs and a soldering iron. The power supply led lights a solid green. I have 3.3dc volts to the main board from the power suppy. Any thoughts on a repair or reset? No obvious signs of a failure on the main board.

Thanks.

kipp jones wrote:

My HD1000 will not power on. It died about a year after purchase. I finally decided to open it up. I am handy with ICs and a soldering iron. The power supply led lights a solid green. I have 3.3dc volts to the main board from the power suppy. Any thoughts on a repair or reset? No obvious signs of a failure on the main board.

Thanks.

Put your finger on U12, is it hotter then you know what?
U12 is below the power connector on the mother board.
Let me know...

Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I reconnected power and checked U12. It is cool to the touch after a few minutes. I have checked all power and switch connections. They are good. When I measured power to the main board, it was on the metal bands coming off of the board on the board side of the connector coming in from the power supply.

kipp jones wrote:

Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I reconnected power and checked U12. It is cool to the touch after a few minutes. I have checked all power and switch connections. They are good. When I measured power to the main board, it was on the metal bands coming off of the board on the board side of the connector coming in from the power supply.

THe power in from the PSU should be 3.3v, 3.3v and 5v (and grounds) on that metal band connector.

There are also some voltage regulators on the main board too and U12 is a great leasson on how slow your reaction time is and how slow the data gets from your hand to tell your brain that it's hot and then your brain to tell your muscles to move your finger. U12 should be hotter then heck and make you pull your finger away as soon as you touch it.

Sounds like you found the issue!

Thanks. Any idea on where I can locate a replacement chip?

kipp jones wrote:

Thanks. Any idea on where I can locate a replacement chip?

Are you in the US, UK or somewhere else?
If your in the US, Mouser is a good palce to start...
Check your PM.

Chicago area.

Looking for some help in reviving my two old RevB HD1000.
They were put away when I setup SONOS for music, and MacMini Server [PLEX] for watching, recording and decoding vids.
However I've just put up an 42' old Plasma and 32' LCD to use as picture frames and wanted to get the units up and running again.

Problems;
UNIT 1
Green LED power light on.
NO busy LED.
U12 to TP29 0.0v
No picture No go

UNIT 2
Green LED power light on. (WILL flash on hold/reset)
NO busy LED
U12 U20 U23 all good
No picture No go

Between the two I have 1 Morex PSU that I installed myself way back when and it appears all good.

Ohh by the way I'm in Australia so Pyramid is not a likely option.

I really hope you can shed some light on some solutions to getting them up and running. (i.e. take to an electronic shop and replace U12 with ?)
I'm not one that likes throwing things out when the can be fixed for a similar price than something to replace it.

Thanks for your time in advance.
Jake.

Which unit has the morex on it, unit 1or unit 2?

aussie wrote:

Looking for some help in reviving my two old RevB HD1000.
They were put away when I setup SONOS for music, and MacMini Server [PLEX] for watching, recording and decoding vids.
However I've just put up an 42' old Plasma and 32' LCD to use as picture frames and wanted to get the units up and running again.

Problems;
UNIT 1
Green LED power light on.
NO busy LED.
U12 to TP29 0.0v
No picture No go

UNIT 2
Green LED power light on. (WILL flash on hold/reset)
NO busy LED
U12 U20 U23 all good
No picture No go

Between the two I have 1 Morex PSU that I installed myself way back when and it appears all good.

Ohh by the way I'm in Australia so Pyramid is not a likely option.

I really hope you can shed some light on some solutions to getting them up and running. (i.e. take to an electronic shop and replace U12 with ?)
I'm not one that likes throwing things out when the can be fixed for a similar price than something to replace it.

Thanks for your time in advance.
Jake.

I just replaced mine with an 85W mini ITX supply. It comes with the brick for $40 with shipping. http://www.directron.com/htpc1080ip.html ITX pinout: http://www.powerstream.com/itx-atx-pinout.htm
I was kind of hoping for something cheaper but flipping through electronics catalogs it seems that 3.3V at a large amperage is kind of rare.

I also put in a case fan. I drilled a couple of holes in each corner of a square to fit the jigsaw blade into it. Then used a nail and hammer to mark where the holes for mounting the fan needed to be drilled. Am running the fan on the 5V so it's very quiet but maybe not effective enough (case fans are normally 12V). Others have suggested using +5 and +12 to get a 7V drop across the fan.

Connect the orange (3.3V) and black (ground) wires from the power supply to the same colors on the connector that you've taken off the dead power supply. Connect the red (5V) supply to yellow on the Roku connector. Connect the green wire to a switch if you want or just wire it to ground (always on). You can always power it off by disconnecting the external brick.

Mine is not professionally done at all. I am a software engineer. For example -- I used packing tape for my insulation. I unwisely left the circuit boards in the unit while metal fragments were flying around with the drill and jigsaw. (A fragment of metal could wedge under a component and short out the board.) Finally I used metal screening for the fan (I left the tape on the sides to try to keep wires from coming off the edge of the screening).

The bundle of wires on the left is just left over from the power supply cable; I thought I might use them for something later (like the fan) so I didn't cut them off all the way.