Your Digital Media Has Never Looked So Good

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barrygordon
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:33 am
Location: Merritt Island FL
Contact:

Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:08 am

Hmmmm... Maybe there is a business opportunity here....

If you are not that handy perhaps you could:

(1) get the PS (there is at least one mentioned here that is known to work and fits well in the case)

(2) Check with the local High school, I bet there will be several students that are very computer HARDWARE savy and they could easily do the job if they can follow instructions and solder.

(3) Send it back to Roku and pay their fee and wait till it goes again. My understanding is they put back the same PS. That follows along the lines of the definition of Insanity - When someone keeps doing the same thing and expects a different outcome.
 
Wulgaru
Posts: 137
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:59 pm
Location: Western Springs, IL

Tue Dec 13, 2005 10:51 am

I picked option 3. When some of the new units that can do full DVD playback and HD become available in 2006, I will be jumping ship from Roku. If I don't, I'll basically just be waiting for my power supply to burn out again. If it takes a year, they'll probably have the price at $150 to replace it by then and still refuse to admit that it's a design flaw that should be fixed for free.
 
halfsheep
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 9:16 pm

Wed Dec 14, 2005 5:57 pm

I still haven't decided about sending mine back to Roku. For now, I'm having AMEX pick up the tab for the HD1000 through their warranty extension program. I loved the thing, thanks largely to the 3rd party developers. But assuming Amex gives me all my money back, I wonder if the dollars aren't better re-spent elsewhere. To Barry's point, expecting a different result seems foolish, so...if I do repair it, changing some variable seems important.

Any chance drilling simple ventilation holes above the power supply (i.e. all around where it shows the signs of burn marks on the cover - as in Olllllo's pics) might help it last longer next time around? That I know I can do.
 
barrygordon
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:33 am
Location: Merritt Island FL
Contact:

Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:52 pm

Holes might help, but.....

If you can open the unit and drill holes, then I believe you can do the Ollllo power supply change, it is not hard. The hardest part will be cutting off the cable from the defunct power supply and splicing the wires (Only 6 have to be spliced) and jumpering the ATX power sense to ground. All the rest is hole drilling and using two sided foam tape to attach the power supply where the old one was.

All that is required is reasonable mechanical skills, (drilling holes, splicing wires etc). If you are worried about soldering, then get automative splices and a crimp tool. It all comes in a kit and is very inexpensive. Instead of soldering you strip wire ends insert in the little insulated tube and crimp. All of that stuff is actually available (crimper, splices etc from Home depot in the electrical department.)

Risk is getting the voltages correct (3.3V, 5V, and ground) I think in all cases ground is black. On standard ATX supplies 5 volts is Red as I believe it is on the new supply and old supplies. On a standard ATX supply yellow is 12 volts and 3.3 volts is normally orange where on the old supply 3.3v was yellow as I recall, so a bit of care is needed.

The standard ATX power supply pinout is available at

http://xtronics.com/reference/atx_pinout.htm
 
olllllo
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:23 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Thu Dec 15, 2005 9:33 am

I completely understand going the AMEX route if that's a viable option.
Cash is definately King!

For the benefit of others that are on the fence about this, I want to underscore the following:

    1) Each of the voltages are marked clearly on the Roku board and on the power supply board. There should be no trouble here.

    2) Barry is right about it mostly being cutting, stripping and crimping. If you can cut and strip wire and use a crimping tool...there should be no trouble here.

    3) You do not have to drill new holes if you do not wish to, you can use the exiting hole that will be voided by the removal of the old power supply circuit board. If you do this, you will have to add some bulk to your incoming DC power wire for strain relief. That way if the cord is pulled you will not pull it off your board connections. I think Barry aluded to this in an earlier post.

    4) Double sided foam tape will work for securing the board, but bear in mind that you will be able to re-use at least one screw from the old assembly. There should be no trouble here.

    5) A switch is not required if you jumper pin 14 to ground. Just another crimp here.

    6) The only thing that was sketchy for me was getting the polarity right on the DC power to the proper pins on the Power Supply board. On the Power supply board, the pin closest to the outside of the board is negative (-). The interior pin is postitive (+). This was not marked on the board, but this is a standard confiuration...
    Image Now that you know this...there should be no trouble here.

    7) There is a diagram on the Power supply brick that tells you whether or not the DC female is center positive or center negative. This is the center positive symbology...Image

    And here is the center negative symbology...Image

    I don't recall what the polarity is on the brick that came with the Morex 60W DCtoDC ATX Power Supply I got from http://www.miraisolutions.net/store/item.php?PartID=133, however you should always double check this. Easy enough.

    8) Since the Power supply brick terminates in a 5.5 mm male coax plug? (think laptop) and the power supply board has 2 pins, you have 2 options. You can puchase the proper female mate, mount it to the case and then connect the leads from the female to the pins on the power supply board using either solder or crimped pins OR you can just snip off the coax plug and then use either solder or crimped pins to connect it to the board. Either way you will have to maintain the correct polarity as noted above. Use a voltmeter if you are unsure.


If you've done one of these you can definately do this.
1) Wiring a light switch (note this is much safer than that).
2) Wiring something in an automobile. (Radio, CB, trailer lighting, etc.)
3) Installed a ceiling fan. (not as physical though)
4) Changed out a componant on a PC. (Optical Drive, Drive, Power Supply)
5) Navigated the standard Roku interface. (though not as frustrating)
 
halfsheep
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 9:16 pm

Sun Dec 18, 2005 6:45 am

Hmm, I have had some trouble getting around the interface...but the rest of those things seem simple enough.

So thank you Barry and Olllllo. I think I will probably give it a shot thanks to all your info. I have to wait to see what Amex needs me to do to reimburse me before I open it up though. I'm not sure if they repossess it or pay for a fix or just give me a refund and let me keep it. Hopefully the latter.

I do have one question about the last "sketchy" part of your post Olllllo. Are you saying the laptop like brick power supply cord - which appears to come with the board doesn't connect directly to it without fiddling? That seems odd so I think I'm missing something there. It looks like it connects directly in your photos. Thanks again.
 
TheDingy
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 8:43 pm

Contact me please

Mon Dec 26, 2005 8:45 pm

If you had a failed power supply please send me an email through the board here. My sister has seen this and she has stated that she can get something done about it if we can get enough people with failed power supplies.

TD
 
barrygordon
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:33 am
Location: Merritt Island FL
Contact:

Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:31 pm

Okay I had a failed PS. Why does your sister think she can do something?Is she
An attorney?
Executive with Roku?
Magical person?

No disrepect, just curious.
 
csinasac
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:54 pm
Location: Dallas, Tx

failed PS on rev B

Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:52 am

Add me to the list. My PS failed on my rev B in Dec 2005 after 11 months of continuous operation. It has been sent back to Roku for warranty repair.

cheers,

csinasac
cheers,

Craig
 
andy
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 7:54 pm
Contact:

Re: failed PS on rev B

Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:59 am

csinasac wrote:
Add me to the list. My PS failed on my rev B in Dec 2005 after 11 months of continuous operation. It has been sent back to Roku for warranty repair.

Thanks for the info, I had never heard of a Rev B power supply failing before this. I had hoped Rev B had a different power supply.

I have chosen the do-it-yourself route. My replacement power supply has arrived from Mirai Solutions. Hopefully the soldering will be done this weekend and I'll have a functioning Rev A HD1000 again soon.

I'll be certain to take some pictures and post a parts list. I'll be following the instructions previously posted in this thread, though I intend to simply tie pin 14 to ground rather than going to the trouble to add a power switch.
Andy Oliver
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aceface
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 9:19 am
Location: RYE, NY
Contact:

Re: Contact me please

Sat Jan 07, 2006 9:32 am

TheDingy wrote:
If you had a failed power supply please send me an email through the board here. My sister has seen this and she has stated that she can get something done about it if we can get enough people with failed power supplies.

TD


Has anyone considered contacting your state Attorney Generals office?? When a product is defective like this the company should make the repair with very little or no cost. i.e. - California sued Apple to deal with the defective iPod battery.
SOLD!! ROKU rev.A w/swap card w/rewired PSU
XBOX360
SONY 3000ES Digital Receiver
SONY 37" Plasma
Ethernet & Wi-Fi Network
Verizon FiOs
WIN XP & MAC OS X
Buffalo Technologies Link Station server
 
leenuxg33k
Posts: 170
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2005 7:09 pm
Location: Boston, MA
Contact:

Re: Contact me please

Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:06 am

aceface wrote:
TheDingy wrote:
If you had a failed power supply please send me an email through the board here. My sister has seen this and she has stated that she can get something done about it if we can get enough people with failed power supplies.

TD


Has anyone considered contacting your state Attorney Generals office?? When a product is defective like this the company should make the repair with very little or no cost. i.e. - California sued Apple to deal with the defective iPod battery.


I agree! My rev B is working fine right now and I've made sure from day one that it has had proper ventilation. If my power supply dies I will be contacting the Attorney General and the BBB.
 
patyoung
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 11:31 am
Location: Mt Pleasant, SC
Contact:

Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:49 pm

I put in the power supply from Mirai a little while ago and my unit has been working great for a couple straight weeks.

Thanks for the great info!
 
tjfounder
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:01 pm

Sun Jan 08, 2006 2:28 pm

I did the do it yourself route as I think $75 for a defective part replacement is not acceptable. I did not get the Mirai supply, instead I got a small micro atx supply and went for the external supply route. The machine will now power up, but It wont get past the ROKU loading OS screen , with the front panel light blinking. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
olllllo
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:23 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Wed Jan 11, 2006 11:59 am

halfsheep
I do have one question about the last "sketchy" part of your post Olllllo. Are you saying the laptop like brick power supply cord - which appears to come with the board doesn't connect directly to it without fiddling? That seems odd so I think I'm missing something there. It looks like it connects directly in your photos. Thanks again.


The Mirai Solutions solution implies (by way of the picture on their site)that the connector between the PS board and the PS brick (female jack) are included. It is not. THey maintain that the connector is usually included with the mini-itx case/ barebones set up.

That leaves you with 3 options: Build, Salvage or Skip.
1) Build it by buying the appropriate female connector from RS, soldering wires to it and either soldering or using connectors to affix it to the board. (Watch polarity!)

2) Salvage a connector set up from a lappy or a DC powered mini-itx / atx set up. (not likely)

3) Skip it by feeding the Male connector from the PS Brick through the case, tying a big ass knot in it so that it cannot slip back through (strain relief), clipping off the male connecter, stripping the wires, attaching connectors (or soldering) and affixing them to the board. (Watch polarity!)

I chose Build because it makes it easier to unplug in the event I have to pull it off the rack.
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