Observation:

I'd set up a Roku (on OS 8.0) and its remote to control the TV power/volume, then paired that Roku to a different remote.  Interestingly, the second remote could automatically control the TV power/volume as well from the get-go.  The Roku unit must sync the IR codes to any new remote pairing.


P.S.  Afterward I'd moved that Roku and remote to a different TV (from Vizio to LG), and was surprised that the remote could likewise control the LG's power/volume without any further set up.  At first I thought the Roku automatically re-programmed the TV IR codes upon detecting (via HDMI-CEC?) a different TV model upon boot-up.  But then I realized that the Vizio and LG TV sets could just as likely share the same IR codes...

beq wrote:

Observation:

I'd set up a Roku (on OS 8.0) and its remote to control the TV power/volume, then paired that Roku to a different remote.  Interestingly, the second remote could automatically control the TV power/volume as well from the get-go.  The Roku unit must sync the IR codes to any new remote pairing.


P.S.  Afterward I'd moved that Roku and remote to a different TV (from Vizio to LG), and was surprised that the remote could likewise control the LG's power/volume without any further set up.  At first I thought the Roku automatically re-programmed the TV IR codes upon detecting (via HDMI-CEC?) a different TV model upon boot-up.  But then I realized that the Vizio and LG TV sets could just as likely share the same IR codes...

I don't believe Roku uses anything but CEC for power/volume control. I don't think IR is involved at all.

atc98092 wrote:

beq wrote:

Observation:

I'd set up a Roku (on OS 8.0) and its remote to control the TV power/volume, then paired that Roku to a different remote.  Interestingly, the second remote could automatically control the TV power/volume as well from the get-go.  The Roku unit must sync the IR codes to any new remote pairing.


P.S.  Afterward I'd moved that Roku and remote to a different TV (from Vizio to LG), and was surprised that the remote could likewise control the LG's power/volume without any further set up.  At first I thought the Roku automatically re-programmed the TV IR codes upon detecting (via HDMI-CEC?) a different TV model upon boot-up.  But then I realized that the Vizio and LG TV sets could just as likely share the same IR codes...

I don't believe Roku uses anything but CEC for power/volume control. I don't think IR is involved at all.

The remote that came with my new Roku Stick uses IR to control my Vizio power and volume.  It's easy to tell because the remote has to be pointed at the TV to change the volume.  SInce the Roku remote uses WiFi to control the Roku, I got in the habit of keeping the remote in my lap while sitting on my recliner and it's behind my legs.  It controls the Roku just fine, but to change the volume I have to lift up the remote above my legs so it points at the TV.

Just as a "FYI" to everyone, the new Roku Stick has been $40 on Amazon for a while now (it came down from $50 right after I bought it lol).  For $40, in many cases it makes more sense to just get the new Roku Stick than to buy a separate remote to pair with your older Roku device.

robkonz wrote:

I got my new Ultra today. It does have an IR blaster built into it. My only complaint right now it that you can not seperate the power and volume. What I mean by that is that if you have an LG TV and a Samsung sound bar. You will only be able to control the Volume or the Power. Not both. I really hope they change this soon. 

Most soundbars have options to sync the TV's IR remote volume with the soundbar.  Have you tried syncing the TV's remote volume to the soundbar and then syncing the Roku remote to the TV sound/power? The Roku remote should then work both the TV and soundbar volume.  Once working then disable the TV's internal speakers.

Streams wrote:

Just as a "FYI" to everyone, the new Roku Stick has been $40 on Amazon for a while now (it came down from $50 right after I bought it lol).  For $40, in many cases it makes more sense to just get the new Roku Stick than to buy a separate remote to pair with your older Roku device.

It's back up to $50.

Streams wrote:

Streams wrote:

Just as a "FYI" to everyone, the new Roku Stick has been $40 on Amazon for a while now (it came down from $50 right after I bought it lol).  For $40, in many cases it makes more sense to just get the new Roku Stick than to buy a separate remote to pair with your older Roku device.

It's back up to $50.

Heh yeah, I ended up getting six of them (especially since Roku doesn't even sell the new remotes separately at this point).  Too bad the new HD Stick remote doesn't have a headphone jack, but I like its shortcut buttons best (it has DTV Now which we use, instead of PS Vue or HBO Now).

I'd bought 3 on Amazon, then later tried to get 3 more but Amazon restricted me to only qty 2 on the second order.  I guess there is/was a limit of 5 per customer?  So I got the 6th on a family member's Amazon account.

atc98092 wrote:

I don't believe Roku uses anything but CEC for power/volume control. I don't think IR is involved at all.

As the others mentioned, the 2017 Stick/Ultra remotes now have an IR emitter window at the top, whereas previous remotes relied only on HDMI-CEC control of select TV's, as you said.  I think the Roku player gets the brand of the connected TV via CEC, then loads the new remote with the first appropriate IR codeset from its database (and asks you to test).  I'm curious though, has anyone found a TV that's not compatible with Roku's IR database?

Interestingly, the Platform Secret Screen lets you select IR vs CEC, change IR codeset, global region, etc:

Home x 5, FF, Play, RW, Play, FF
-> "RF Remote Menu"
-> "IR transmit menu"
-> "Universal IR Menu..." or "Universal CEC Menu..."



Has anyone tried all the options?  What's CapTouch, etc.


P.S.  The 2017 Apple TV 4K's remote also uses auto-programmed IR codes to control the TV volume, but relies on CEC for TV power.  I don't remember if this had been supported with previous Apple TV models or not (my older players are in storage).

mike1597 wrote:

robkonz wrote:

My only complaint right now it that you can not seperate the power and volume. What I mean by that is that if you have an LG TV and a Samsung sound bar. You will only be able to control the Volume or the Power. Not both. I really hope they change this soon. 

Most soundbars have options to sync the TV's IR remote volume with the soundbar.  Have you tried syncing the TV's remote volume to the soundbar and then syncing the Roku remote to the TV sound/power? The Roku remote should then work both the TV and soundbar volume.  Once working then disable the TV's internal speakers.

The "IR Transmit Menu" above also has an option to enable/disable "Querying AVRs (instead of TVs)".  Would this do anything as far as using a separate AVR or soundbar?

Another observation:

I've been having multiple (~3) Roku's connected to one TV, in the course of setting up or do testing, rotating them in and out.  Very strangely, sometimes the new Roku remotes would connect to units that they're not paired with, usually temporarily.  Often when I'm switching a unit between Wi-Fi band (5 to 2.4 GHz).  Sometimes when I pick up a remote that hasn't been used in awhile (and might need to wake from sleep).

These Roku's have 1-touch play enabled to switch HDMI input upon activity.  So when I press a button on a remote for the currently active Roku, I sometimes see the TV switch to another input belonging to another Roku, and that remote would register the next few key presses on that second Roku.  But usually after a few secs the remote would re-sync back to the original Roku, and the TV would switch back to the original Roku input.

Perhaps the new Roku's, or the new OS 8.0, allows more permissive remote connection if the pairing takes too long to re-establish?

beq wrote:

Streams wrote:

Streams wrote:

Just as a "FYI" to everyone, the new Roku Stick has been $40 on Amazon for a while now (it came down from $50 right after I bought it lol).  For $40, in many cases it makes more sense to just get the new Roku Stick than to buy a separate remote to pair with your older Roku device.

It's back up to $50.

Heh yeah, I ended up getting six of them (especially since Roku doesn't even sell the new remotes separately at this point).  Too bad the new HD Stick remote doesn't have a headphone jack, but I like its shortcut buttons best (it has DTV Now which we use, instead of PS Vue or HBO Now).

I'd bought 3 on Amazon, then later tried to get 3 more but Amazon restricted me to only qty 2 on the second order.  I guess there is/was a limit of 5 per customer?  So I got the 6th on a family member's Amazon account.

Did you get them on sale for $40?

Roku is now selling the new player remotes (with TV power/volume) as separate accessories:

https://www.roku.com/accessories/remotes

I just ordered 3 with the headphone jack (normally bundled with the 2017 Ultra).  With remote lost finder and gaming buttons, too.

They're also selling the one without the headphone jack (from the 2017 Stick/Stick+).

You can't use the one without the gaming buttons on a Premiere+?

So I have to spend $10 more for two dumb gaming buttons that I'll will never use. Yeah, no thanks.

Bacon wrote:

You can't use the one without the gaming buttons on a Premiere+?

So I have to spend $10 more for two dumb gaming buttons that I'll will never use. Yeah, no thanks.

I'm curious too, has anyone tried the combination to confirm?  For example, the headphone jack on the new Ultra remote works fine with the 2017 Stick and Stick+.  But other functions like the lost remote finder don't, that's why this remote isn't sold for the Sticks, presumably?

Streams wrote:

Did you get them on sale for $40?

Sorry moved here: https://forums.roku.com/viewtopic.php?f ... 66#p578502

beq wrote:

I've been having multiple (~3) Roku's connected to one TV, in the course of setting up or do testing, rotating them in and out.  Very strangely, sometimes the new Roku remotes would connect to units that they're not paired with, usually temporarily.  Often when I'm switching a unit between Wi-Fi band (5 to 2.4 GHz).  Sometimes when I pick up a remote that hasn't been used in awhile (and might need to wake from sleep).

These Roku's have 1-touch play enabled to switch HDMI input upon activity.  So when I press a button on a remote for the currently active Roku, I sometimes see the TV switch to another input belonging to another Roku, and that remote would register the next few key presses on that second Roku.  But usually after a few secs the remote would re-sync back to the original Roku, and the TV would switch back to the original Roku input.

Perhaps the new Roku's, or the new OS 8.0, allows more permissive remote connection if the pairing takes too long to re-establish?

Another observation:

I had a 2017 Roku player already set up with its enhanced remote (which has both Wi-Fi Direct and IR).  I also had another remote that I just placed batteries in, out of the box, without having it paired to anything yet.  Surprisingly it worked with the Roku right away, but via IR it turns out (since I could block its commands by covering the IR window with my hand).  After I paired it with a different Roku, it then stopped working with the first unit.

It looks like the new enhanced remotes start broadcasting IR Roku commands out of the box, until it's paired with a specific Roku via Wi-Fi.  And perhaps revert back to IR Roku broadcast whenever the Wi-Fi link is disrupted or while waking from sleep.

I have been posting in another thread about this.  My new Stick which came with the remote that controls TV power and volume seems to be controlling the Stick via IR.  When I point it away from the TV or put my hand in front of it it stops controlling the Roku.  When I point it back at the TV I have to press the buttons a few times and then it controls the Roku again.

Well with the old remotes, there were IR models that would broadcast commands to any (non-Stick) Roku, and RF (Wi-Fi/BT) models that must be paired to a specific Roku.

The new remotes have both Wi-Fi and IR -- the latter is mainly advertised to control the TV set (with broader support than HDMI CEC), but it makes sense that the IR emitter is also a quick fallback to control the Roku when the Wi-Fi has not been paired or has temporarily lost pairing.

I keep seeing this happening with the new remotes.  A fresh remote out of the box (before any pairing) starts working with Roku's in the vicinity via IR.  After it's paired to a specific Roku and I unplug power from that Roku, the remote falls back to IR mode and again affects other Roku's in the vicinity.  After power management sleep (or when I switch the Roku between 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi band), the remote often flips to IR for just a sec or two before it re-establishes pairing.