He [whirlpool guy] just said it works as in it has not failed/blown up yet; not that it functions correctly as in it was designed for it.
As I said, I have seen some (not many) PSU's rated for 110 work on 208 (I know wer are talking 220 and not 208, but I am just talking about the example I have seen) for a while, then blow up the reservoir cap (most PSUs will smoke off the bat, but I have seen some work for almost 6 months, but that is a dangerous place to be). Also, as RokuGreg pointed out, if it's note rated for it, regardless of what it can do, you are misusing it in the event there is a catastrophic failure then you don't have a leg to stand on in case of personal loss.
They may be right about the label but I have also seen OEM's change things and not change the PN or revision number and I work for a semiconductor company that makes us qualify any non vendor supplied part even though it's from the OEM with the same PN and REV; just to avoid a down event due to this.
If it were I, I would find a wall-wart rated at 12v 1amp that says it can take the 220v input or verify the reservoir cap is ~400v and not ~200v (and there is more to it then that, so don't think you can just change the cap out to a 400v one if it's 200v and your good to go, the circuit needs to be designed for the wide input range and the cap value is just a sign). The proof is in the pudding, check the resivor cap and that will tell you, but remember, you are still using it past the recommended rating as far as CYA goes. ALso, that proof is not 100% either unless you know the design, the OEM may have run out of 200v caps during a run and used 400v to keep the run going and since it's overrated it will work just fine, I have seen this too.
So in closing, I would find a third party wall-wart that is rated for the input voltage you need and use it just as cheap insurance...
As always, just my 2-cents worth and your mileage may vary, Matt
An Australian user has now confirmed the power unit works on 240v on a local forum.http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-re ... &p=14#r277
A great result. So that is now a confirmed UK user on 230v and an Aust user on 240v reporting no issues or concerns with the new Roku 3 straight out of the box and into local power supplies.
Roku3 and Roku HD1000 [Rev B] on a Samsung HLP5674W DLP in the living room; a Roku2 and two Roku XS and a few SoundBridges.Win7; Kubuntu and XP via RT-N66U, E2000 and a switch or two. I own stock in Roku, it's just all in the form of hardware.Viva la Roku